Your vegetable garden in July - Grow Your Own

Some of the vegetables you could be enjoying right now.

Lettuce 'Palla rosa', courgette 'Green bush' and beetroot 'Carillon'

Try Something Different.

Star shaped borage flowers

Why not experiment with edible flowers – they are a great way of adding brightness and interest to salads and other dishes. See our factsheets: Edible flowers and Edible leaves.

Things to do in the vegetable garden this month

• 
  Removing tomato side shoots
  
  
  Carrot fly protection
• If you are going on holiday make sure you have hoed and weeded between plants and applied mulches to any spots of bare soil to conserve water and prevent weed growth. See our factsheet: Mulches for weed control (requires members' password).
• Tie in tomatoes and pinch out the main shoot on cordons and side shoots, except on bush varieties, which should be mulched with straw to keep fruits clean. For information on some common tomato problems at this time of year go to the following link: Tomato Troubles.
• Continue to make regular sowings of salad crops to see you into the autumn.
• Keep harvesting vegetables as soon as they are ready, most taste better when they are young and you can plant another crop in its place, getting more our your land.
• Finish planting out winter brassicas; summer cauliflowers may need shading to prevent the curds opening or becoming scorched. This can be done by bending a few leaves over the curds to prevent the sun reaching them.
• Pinch out runner beans. Removing the leading shoot will encourage side shoots hence more beans will be produced.
• Cut and dry herbs while they are at their best.
• Beware of carrot fly when thinning existing seedlings. See our factsheet on Carrot fly (requires members' password)
• Keep adding material to your compost heap, mixing greens (nitrogen) with browns (carbon) at a 50/50 ratio and cover the heap to retain moisture.
  For more information on making compost, see How to make compost.
• Cover flowering pea plants with fine mesh or fleece to protect against Pea moth.
• Maincrop potatoes should be earthed up again to keep light from the newly developing tubers.
• Check all vegetable netting for holes and gaps that may allow pests to attack.
• Sow bare ground with a green manure crop. Suitable for this month are Buckwheat (Polygonaceae), Mustard (Brassicaceae), Phacelia (Hydrophyllaceae), Alfalfa, Crimson & Essex Red Clover, Fenugreek, Lupin, and Trefoil (all Leguminosae).
  For more information on green manures see our factsheet How to grow green manures in the vegetable plot or visit the Organic Gardening Catalogue.
  
  Access to factsheets online requires members' password.
  Find out more about Garden Organic membership.

Sowing and Planting

• Continue to sow outdoors

  
  Chinese cabbage
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  This is a Heritage Seed Library
  pea variety called
  'Champion of England'
  More information on HSL
  
  
  
  
  
  
  Swiss chard

  M	Beetroot	early and maincrop; until July. Try 'Bolthardy', good resistance to bolting, with fine texture and flavour, available from the Organic Gardening Catalogue.
  M	Chinese cabbage	until the end of August. Do not transplant from a seedbed - either sow direct or in modules. Some varieties, such as Tatsoi, should not be sown before the end of June, or they will quickly go to seed. Others, such as Nikko can be sown as early as March.
  M	Calabrese	until the end of July
  	Carrots	early; until the end of July Try some in a box if you've run out of space in the garden. Use an early variety such as the extra sweet Sugarsnax or the spherical rooted Paris Market.
  M	Cauliflower	mini - until early July
  	Chicory	until the end of July; Pain di Zucchero, harvest in October.
  	Chicory, red and sugar loaf	until the end of August
  M	Florence fennel	for sowing before mid June, choose a cultivar listed as suitable for early sowing; some cultivars are very sensitive to day length and will bolt if sown before the longest day (21st June); until early August
  M	French beans	until the end of June, or July for a late crop of dwarf beans under cloches
  	Hamburg parsley	Until the end of July. Grown for its white parsnip-like roots.
  M	Kohl rabi	until August. Try Azure Star, striking blue/purple ‘bulbs’ with white, mild flavoured flesh.
  M	Lettuce	looseleaf, Cos, crisphead and butterhead. Lettuce, apart from crisphead varieties, germinates poorly when the soil temperature goes above 25C. This can happen in summer. To avoid this risk in hot weather, sow into well watered soil between 2 and 4pm, then cover with some form of shading material for the first 24hrs.
  	Salad onions	until mid June; sow winter varieties from August onwards, such as Ramond
  M	Pak choi	until the end of August
  M	Parsley	Until the end of July
  	Peas	maincrop, mangetout and sugarsnap (until the end of July). Where pea moth is a problem, delay sowings until mid May, so they will be flowering after the pea moth lays its eggs.
  	Radish, mooli	until the end of August
  	Radish, winter	Until the end of August. Sow winter varieties such as China Rose and Black Spanish.
  M	Spinach, perpetual	Until mid August, or the end of August under cover. You'll find it under Leaf Beet in the Organic Gardening Catalogue.
  M	Swiss chard	Until mid August, or the end of August undercover. To brighten up your winter plot, try the variety 'Bright Lights'. Stems can be orange, yellow, red, bright pink or even white! You'll find it under Leaf Beet in the Organic Gardening Catalogue.
  	Turnip	early varieties until the end of August; maincrop varieties until August.

  M = may also be raised in modules for transplanting

• Sow in a seedbed to transplant

  M

  Kale (borecole)

  until early August

  M = may also be raised in modules for transplanting

• What you could be eating now

  - if you remembered to sow it and if the weather has been kind.

  Globe artichokes Asparagus peas Broad beans French beans Runner beans Beetroot Leaf beet Cabbage Calabrese Carrots Cauliflower, early/mini Celery, self blanching Chard Chicory Corn Salad Courgettes Cucumber (outdoors and in)

  Endive Garlic Kohl rabi Lettuce Mibuna/Mizuna Greens Onions, autumn planted Onions, salad Parsley Peas Potatoes, early Summer squash Radish Rhubarb, from crowns Rocket Shallots Spinach Sweetcorn Tomato, indoor

• 
  Save tomato seed

• Saving lettuce and tomato seed is simple and satisfying. You can produce quantities of high quality seed at no cost at all. Neither lettuce nor tomatoes interbreed easily, so no special measures are required to keep a variety pure.

  For more detailed instructions on seed saving, click on tomato seed or lettuce seed.

Pest and disease watch

Asparagus beetle

• Asparagus beetles lay their eggs on asparagus foliage in June. The adult beetles, which are around 6mm (1/4in) long, have a distinctive yellow and black pattern. The larvae are grey, with a humped back. There may be 2 or 3 generations a year. Pick off any pests you see.
   
• Potato blackleg is a bacterial disease that affects individual stems on a potato plant. The base of the stem blackens and leaves roll and wrinkle, before dying back early. Infected tubers smell revolting as they rot.
  
  Our Potato blackleg factsheet gives more information.
  
  Online factsheet access requires members' password - find out more about Garden Organic membership here
• 
  Tomato blight - on fruit
  
  
  Blossom end rot
  
  
  Cabbage white butterfly
  eggs and caterpillars
  
  
  Lettuce with slug collar protection
• Potato blight may well have made an appearance by now. To protect tubers from the spores that the rain washes off leaves and into the soil, earth up plants, or mulch them with a thick layer of straw or autumn leaves.
   
  Potato blight can also attack tomatoes and is often first noticed on the fruits. The brown leathery patches caused by blight are often confused with the symptoms of blossom end rot - a condition usually caused by irregular watering. Blossom end rot patches are dark brown/ black and always occur at the bottom end of the fruit.
  
  See our Potato blight and tomato blight factsheets for more information.
  
  Online factsheet access requires members' password - find out more about Garden Organic membership here
• Protect carrots, parsley and parsnips from the carrot rootfly, in areas where this pest is a problem.
  
  Our Carrot rootfly factsheet tells all
• When you see cabbage white butterflies on the wing, start checking cabbage and other brassica plants for signs of eggs and caterpillars. Squash or pick off any that you see.
   
• Put slug traps and barriers around new sowings and plantings.
   
• If onion or garlic plants are dying back prematurely, the cause could be onion white rot. Dig plants up carefully to look for the telltale fluffy white mould, containing pinhead sized black spores (known as sclerotia).
  
  Our Onion white rot factsheet gives more information.
  
  Online factsheet access requires members' password - find out more about Garden Organic membership here
• Flea Beetles, mainly pests of brassicas, radish and mustard, can be particularly damaging during dry weather. They eat small holes in young leaves and stems. A severe attack can check and even kill young plants.
  Our Flea beetles factsheet gives more information.

• Bean seed fly
  The larvae (small white maggots) attack the germinating seed and growing point of bean and pea seedlings. If the growing point is chewed through, then growth will be terminated, if the seedling survives, fungal rots might follow and again the seedling may not grow.

  Especially vulnerable are seeds that are directly sown in soils that remain cold. Germination is slowed in cooler temperatures, so try starting seeds off in modules indoors and plant them out when the soil is warmer. To help things along place black plastic, fleece or flattened cardboard on the soil in the spring to warm the soil up.

  

  The tell-tale signs of bean seed fly are the brown depressed areas on the cotyledons and growing point of the seedlings (in this case, French climbing bean). Fungal rots might follow.

• 
  Damage caused by pea and bean weevil
  to broad bean plant
• Bean and bean weevil
  Adults overwinter in plant debris and vegetation, emerging to feed on plants in spring. Eggs are laid in the soil around pea and bean plants, and larvae feed on root nodules, pupating in the soil. Adults emerge in June or July to feed on leaves of beans or peas. Characteristic scalloped holes are eaten out of the edges of leaves.
  See our Pea and bean weevil factsheet for further details.
  
  Online factsheet access requires members' password - find out more about Garden Organic membership here
• 'Prevention is better than cure' so they say.
  Garden Organic members can see our factsheet: Organic pest and disease control to really get to know your garden pests from your beneficial insects.
  
  Access to this 'get started' guide requires members' password.
  Find out more about Garden Organic membership.

back to - What to do in your garden now

Bookmark this page on:

StumbleUpon | Delicious | Reddit | Digg | Facebook

Top of page | Home | Privacy | Contact | Advertise | Support us

All content © Garden Organic  |  Registered Charity No 298104

Garden Organic is the working name of the Henry Doubleday Research Association (HDRA).
We are not responsible for the content of external web sites.

Supported by